Flashback Series: Northern Africa Trip IV

JULY 2009:

Candlelight's burning, but I wanted to catch you up on some sights, happenings, and some thoughts. Yesterday we rode a train to a neighboring city, and I think I experienced the hottest temperature in my 25 years and 10 months of existence. I think it was somewhere around 42 degrees Celsius outside the train, and there's no telling how hot it was inside the train.

After talking for an extended period with a couple of boys, I realized that I was sitting with a family (minus Dad). I taught the two boys and their younger sister how to play Crazy Eight, and they taught me how to play a card game I'd never seen before. It was great fun. I learned how to say, in their language, "heart", "father", and "eight". In the end, I felt the need to give them a gift. As the boys had been teaching themselves English, mostly by listening to American music at home, I chose to give them my favorite book. I hope they'll read it and love it like I do. Maybe they can share the stories with their family, too.

On the three hour ride, I looked out the window to see a world where shepards still keep watch over flocks. Every now and then, the arid landscape was saddled by a small village complete with a protective wall encircling its earthen abodes. The fields were littered with stones. Instead of the barbed wire found in the western U.S., giant cacti were used to create property borders and corrals for livestock. Believe it or not, people were out working in the oppressive heat. Still more were riding donkeys. I really don't know where they rode those donkeys; there weren't any 7/11 stores.


We arrived at the nearby city, found a hotel room (with the only A/C thus far), and set out to explore the markets. Once there, we saw snake charmers, henna artists, and musicians in the street. After pushing our way through the barricade of tourist traps, we found the fresh orange juice stands. After enjoying a bit of real orange juice, we took in the sights of exotic spice stands in all their colorful regalia. There were dried figs, dates, golden raisins, pumpkin seeds, and more. All the while, the cooks were preparing for a night of what was to be the most sensuous feast I've ever been blessed to enjoy. And by sensuous, I mean all of my five senses were involved. But more about that later...

The shops of the market were joined to form a labyrinth of enormous proportions. Had I not been with such a great group of friends, some of them speaking the language of the merchants, I would have been like a drop of water joined with the river. And a river of people we were: always pushing forward. Sometimes the current would slow down enough for us to lull in a few shops. I picked up some gifts for friends and family with much glee. I do believe haggling is now one of my favorite things to do here. Note: that doesn't mean I'm good at it. The merchants are very good at what they do for a living.


Hours went by and stomachs grew empty as feet felt weary. Trying to get out of the seemingly impossible maze once it got dark was a real trip. Scores of men on motorbikes (not motorcycles, like we're used to) wove through the thick pedestrians in ways that solidify my hunch that someone is watching out for us on Earth below. Finally, we made it out of the market and into the great commons to behold rising columns of savory smoke. Each column of smoke led the eyes and nose to a culinary treasure too great to reduce to mere verbatim.

We were seated at a long table, among scores of long booths, right next to our respective outdoor kitchen. Half of the food I ate that night is still a mystery to me. It was very tasty. And yes, I had three minuscule bites of goat brain which had the consistency of soft butter. The service was great. Our poor waiter was having a time of it; apparently he was the bottom rung of the ladder. All the other workers were shouting at him as he worked beyond fatigue and through the heat of the kitchen. Our leader encouraged him and spoke kindly to him.


We shared time with students, and they asked some pretty probing questions. I hope their hearts were touched as much as ours, and they received what was meant for them. So many diligent and gifted students. So many dreams and aspirations. May they come to enjoy the abundant life we know and take it to all they meet. I bet they'll go far.